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Hill Stations
In India
Zanskar
Zanskar An Introduction
About 20 kms south-east of Rangdum stands the Panzila axis, across
which lies Zanskar, the most isolated of all the
trans-Himalayan valleys. The Penzila pass (4,401m)
is a picturesque tableland surrounded by snow-covered peaks.
As
the Zanskar road winds down the steep slopes of
Penzi-la to the head of the Stod valley, the majestic " Drang-Drung"
glacier looms into full view. A long and winding river of ice and
snow, "Drang-Drung" is perhaps the largest glacier in
Ladakh, outside the Siachen formation. It is from the cliff-like
snout of this extensive glacier that the Stod or Doda tributary
of the Zanskar River rises.
The
spectacular Himalayan landscape and the lifestyles of the inhabitants
attract many tourists to the hidden kingdom of Zanskar
Sight
Seeing (Zanskar)
Padum
once the capital of the ancient kingdom of Zanskar, Padum (3505
m) is the present-day administrative centre of Zanskar
Sub-Division of Kargil district. Its older section,
comprising of inter-connected adobe houses and several high-rise
chortens, surround a boulder-strewn hillock, site of the erstwhile
palace and fort.
The
new, upcoming township is fast encroaching upon the cultivated expanse,
and a small market is coming up along the newly built road. With
a population of nearly 2000, Padum can be described as the most
populous settlement of Zanskar, which is otherwise a very scarcely
inhabited valley.
Sani
This picturesque village is 6 kms west of Padum, on the road to
Kargil. The main attraction here is the castle-like monastery, which
unlike other monasteries of Ladakh, is built on level ground. By
legend its origin is associated with Kanishka (Kushan ruler of 2nd
century AD) on account of the Kanika Stupa, which stands in the
backyard of the walled complex. The main building comprises a huge
multi-columned central prayer hall housing an array of statues of
popular Buddhist divinities and Kargud-pa high lamas, while the
walls are covered with frescoes and adorned with Thangkas. The most
interesting frescoes, however, can be seen in a small, neglected
chapel, at the back of the main building whose walls are adorned
with stucco murals depicting landscapes and floral designs based
on the life of Padmasambhava. Immediately outside the monastic complex
is an old cemetery surrounded by a ring of ancient rock-carvings,
which reflect Indian artistic influence.
Sani
is also associated with the famous Indian Yogi Naropa, who is said
to have sat in meditation for some time under the Kanika Stupa.
This site is now occupied by a small room housing a veiled bronze
figure of the Yogi, which is unveiled once a year in late July on
the eve of the Naro-Nasjal festival. People from all over Zanskar
valley participate in this festival during which lamas from Bardan
Monastery perform masked dances as ritual offering.
Karsha
The largest monastery of Zanskar, Karsha Gompa is an imposing complex
of neatly white washed building blocks comprising several chapels,
besides residential cells for its nearly 150 lamas, who belong to
the Geluks-pa sect. Built picturesquely along the steeply rising
mountainside above Karsha village, the monastery can be seen from
far. The central building is a large assembly hall housing an array
of figures and the ornate throne of the Head Lama-incarnate. Three
adjoining chapels contain numerous statues and other art objects,
among which a set of exquisite silver and copper chortens are worth
noting for their beauty. Of particular interest in the complex is
the Lhabrang, a large temple accessible through a vent in the roof,
whose partially damaged walls are still adorned with the original
frescos believed to be more than 300 years old. The event to witness
at Karsha is the 3-day Gustor festival held in early July when thousands
of devotees throng the monastery to witness the mask dances performed
by the lamas.
Other
places of interest in the Karsha area include an old nunnery called
Dorje Dzong, occupying a hilltop to the west of the main monastery.
The ruins around this nunnery are believed to be the original monastic
foundation of Karsha: the present monastery was founded during the
14th century. An old stupa surviving among the ruins is still adorned
with the original murals, which reflect Indian artistic influence.
Nearby is the ancient temple of 'Chukshik-jal', which houses an
exquisite figure of Avalokitesvara as the main image. Its smoke
covered wall frescos are the finest example of Himalayan art.
Karsha
can be approached from Padum by the 9 km long link road, across
an iron bridge over the Stod river. It can also be approached directly
from the Tungri bridgehead along a 17-km link road that branches
off from the Kargil-Padum road at Tungri, about 12 kms before Padum.
Stongdey
Perched on a rocky outcrop overlooking the oasis-like village below,
the picturesque monastery of Stongdey lies 18 kms to the north of
Padum, on the Padum-Zangla road. An old foundation associated with
the Tibetan Yogi Marpa, Stongdey is now the second largest monastic
establishment of Zanskar, which is inhabited by a resident community
of about 60 Geluks-pa lamas. The sprawling white washed complex
has a number of temples, among which the Gon-Khang containing several
fierce-faced veiled deities is of particular interest. The climb
up to the monastery from the roadside is rather strenuous, but it
is worth the trouble for the breathtaking scenery of the valley
available from here.
Zangla
Situated 35 kms further ahead of Padum in the northern branch valley
of Zanskar, Zangla was ruled by a titular king till his
death about two decades back. The old castle, now in ruins except
for a small chapel, occupies a hill overlooking the desertic valley
below. Nearby is an old Buddhist nunnery worth a visit to observe
the austere lifestyle of the small community of nuns. An old monastery
situated in the nearby village of Tsa-zar, midway between Stangdey
and Zangla, has exquisite frescoes that should not be missed.
Zangla
is the take-off point for the Padum-Lamayuru and the Padum-Markha
treks, as well as for the 'Chaddar' trek over the frozen Zanskar
river to Nimu, which becomes feasible only during the middle of
the winter.
Bardan(Zanskari
villagers)
Located 12 kms south of Padum, Bardan is an isolated monastery with
about 40 Dugpa- Kargyud lamas in residence. Founded during the 17th
century as the first ever centre of the Dugpa-Kargyud monastic order
in Zanskar, Bardan controls several smaller establishments in the
region, including the famous Sani monastery.
The
large assembly hall, around which all other structures are organised,
contains beautiful statues of Buddhist divinities and small stupas
in clay, bronze, wood and copper. Perched atop a rocky crag rising
vertically from the Lungnak riverbed, Bardan falls right on the
trekking trail to Manali. Nearby is the smaller monastery of Muney,
also worth a visit for appreciating its art treasures.
Phugthal(Phugthal
Monastery)
By far the most spectacularly located monastic establishment anywhere
in Ladakh, the Phugthal complex spills out of the mouth of a huge
cave, high up in the vertical mountainside of the lateral Shadi
gorge, through which a major tributary of the Lungnak or Lingti-Tsarap
river flows. Perhaps the most isolated monastic establishment of
Zanskar, its foundation dates back to the early 12th century. At
least one old chapel, among the several of which it is composed,
has frescos and ceiling decorations reflecting strong Indian artistic
and iconographic influence, which are almost contemporaneous to
those found in the Tabo and Alchi monasteries. Phugthal is accessible
from the Padum-Manali trekking route via a 7-Km long trail that
branches off from the main trekking route at Purney Bridge. A visit
to Phugthal, including Bardan and Muney monasteries enroute, makes
a good 5-day round trek from Padum. Alternatively, one can add one
extra day to the Padum-Manali trekking itinerary to include a day
return visit to this unique monastic establishment which was a resident
community of about 40 Geluks-pa lamas.
Zongkhul
The other spectacular cave monastery of Zanskar,
Zongkhul falls on the Padum-Kishtawar trekking trail, just before
the ascent to the Omasi-la pass begins. Built like a swallow's nest
on the rock face in the Ating gorge, the monastery is associated
by legend with the famous Indian Yogi, Naropa, who is believed to
have used for meditation the two caves around which the monastery
has been developed. A footprint on a stone near the ingress of the
lower cave is highly revered as that of the yogi. The frescoes on
the cave walls are very old and reflect a high degree of artistic
achievement. These are believed to be the original murals executed
by Zhadpa Dorje, the famous scholar-painter of Zanskar who was active
in the same monastery about 300 years ago
Weather
Owing to the altitudes the Zanskar valley is accessible
only during the summer months. The winter months are too harsh for
travel in Zanskar. It is noteworthy that in the winter months the
water of the River Zanskar freezes and becomes
the Chador road.
Location
The Zanskar valley is situated across the Suru
Valley and over the Pensi La in the Ladakh region of Jammu
and Kashmir. Zanskar is situated 235 km away from Kargil.
Getting
there
There are several high passes that need to be crossed in order to
reach Zanskar. Padum in the Zanskar
valley may be joined but the track is not really smooth
Road & Rail
It is noteworthy that the road that links Zanskar with Kargil is
open from mid July to early November. Buses. Jeeps, gypsies and
taxis are easily available for transport to Zanskar
from Kargil. Kargil is approximately 235 km away
from Zanskar. During the months of June and July you may trek into
Zanskar from Panikhar or Parkachik onwards.
Accommodation
A accommodation is not a problem in Zanskar. You
may stay at the Tourists complex or be economical and opt for the
camps in the tents. There are few hotels too in Zanskar that provide
basic facilities. Monasteries and village houses are the other stay
options in Zanskar
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